The Long Overdue Vacation: Day 9 – Things Get Dark
Posted in Travel on January 21st, 2009 by Mike Nguyen – Be the first to commentToday was my selfish day. Actually, every day of this trip was a selfish day, since this was my idea and all, but let’s pretend there were two other people with me for a second. Finally, I got to check off my list of things I didn’t experience the first time I was in Paris.
Cool Things
- The Catacombs. Alan and I were looking forward to this months before we even left the States. Ezeibe…not so much. We had to wait outside in the freezing cold for quite a bit to get in (as there are limits to how many people can be underground at once). Ezeibe was not pleased. Then we took about 800 or so steps way way way underground. This was like beyond sewer level, it felt like we were walking down to Earth’s core. The stairs were on this tiny spiral staircase that just never ended. Not for the claustrophobic or old, for sure. You walk a good quarter mile or so of tunnels without ever seeing a skull or bone, but it’s still pretty cool. There are sculptures built into the rock, for example, and just being underground going through a tiny narrow tunnel is pretty awesome. But then, the bones. Oh the bones. The catacombs are no joke. It goes on for miles. And it is COVERED in bones. There used to be a time where they didn’t really lock up parts of the Catacombs and visitors would actually get lost amongst the miles of bones down here. Unfortunately, they now provide a pretty clear path you follow. The feeling of being deep underground surrounded by, essentially, dead people, was kind of fascinating. You could touch these bones and skulls. It felt unreal, like I was examining a model skull, not that of an actual person. When I realized that these bones belonged to real people, I went through phases of disgust and guilt for being so disrespectful.

Back in olden times, Sunday worship service was actually held down in the Catacombs to pray for the souls of the deceased.

For obvious reasons, the Catacombs are not very well lit, making it extremely difficult to take photos without flash. That wall behind the pedestal...all dead people.
- Pompidou Center. I still don’t know how I feel about the Pompidou Center architecture, but I can say it’s at least fitting for the art collection it holds (modern art). I went to the Pompidou Center when I was here in high school, but we never went inside. It’s a good thing we did this time. The collection was pretty spectacular, Man Ray, Dali, a ton of Picasso. It felt like it had the majority of the modern day masterpieces. What I enjoyed vividly about this museum was the description cards in each of the rooms were written out in English. When it comes to modern art, that context was pretty vital. Each of the main exhibit rooms went in chronological order from early 1900′s to today separated by art movement or artist. And the view of the city from the top of the Pompidou was again spectacular.

Modern art at its finest. This was considered a masterpiece of modern art. People actually stared at these three paintings (yes, it's a painting) as if they knew what the hell was going on. Yuppies.
- Dans le Noir. We ate in the dark! If you talked to me before I left for this trip, you know the castle and this restaurant were the two things I was most looking forward to. I got to say, no matter how much research I did on this restaurant, nothing prepared me for this dining experience. In good conscience, I can’t even say we ate in the dark, we ate in pitch black. This isn’t the type of dark like when you leave all the lights off your house but can make out slight shadows of the light switch. This is the dark where you close your eyes but never open them, without peeking. Now, after a really really really long day (see below), maybe this night wasn’t the greatest bit of timing. I felt so bad, I did offer to pay for dinner, this was my dream after all. Ezeibe and Alan at least respected me enough not to deny me of my lifelong dream (you had to book a table days in advance), even if they were slowly melting down. Interesting tidbits about this restaurant
- All of the wait staff are legally blind. Ours was an awesome lady named Sarah who could speak a crazy amount of languages. I felt so reassured every time I heard her voice in the restaurant (since you know, we were in pitch black and couldn’t see her). It’s crazy how they know where all the tables and chairs are in the restaurant.
- That night, we only had the Surprise menu available. The surprise theme du jour was “Orange.” You don’t find out what you ate until afterwards, which unsettled Ezeibe greatly.
- Pouring water into a cup is not easy when you can’t see anything. First, reach for cup without knocking anything over. Dip finger in said cup. Pour until your finger gets wet.
- Things get very loud in pitch black.
- Eating in pitch black must save you a lot of money on decor.
- From what we could gather from echolocation, it was cafeteria-style dining, with one or two long tables and all parties getting seated along the table. I was in between a Spanish-speaking dude and what I think was an empty chair. Ezeibe and Alan were across from me. I was so tempted to poke them in the face.
- Marshmellows are most delicious when you’re not expecting them.
- Upon seeing the photos of what we ate, I’m fairly certain I missed a good third of my main course.
- The “Orange” was mostly pumpkins. Unfortunately, I hate pumpkins.
- I offered to pay for a 300 dollar bill. Sweet.

Dans le Noir restaurant - Isn't the decor lovely?
Not-So-Cool Things
- Douchebags in the Catacombs. Like those that steal skulls and bones and then get caught when they exit and get their bags searched. Who the hell steals a dead person’s bones?! Also, people who are obnoxiously loud and giggling in, essentially, a cemetery. I don’t care how long ago these people died, show some respect!
- Remember those 800 steps down to the Catacombs? The only thing more never-ending is 800 steps back up to ground level. Alan and I had lost Ezeibe in the tombs. We assumed he was taking his time. Turns out, he ran through the Catacombs because of his “fast metabolism” (i.e. enlarged prostate)
- The most miserable walk ever. At this point, we still hadn’t seen the Champs-Elysee. Ezeibe really wanted to see the Arc de Triomphe and go to the top. Unfortunately, I don’t think we could’ve picked a worse time to go, the day after Christmas…on the Champs-Elysee. Think about it. First, we misshot our metro stop and had to walk a good half a mile to get to the Arc, through crowds of people all over the Christmas market. It was suffocating. Imagine the amount of people buried in the tight spaces of the Catacombs, except alive and trying to return all their Christmas presents, and you had the chaos of the Champs Elysee. The Arc du Triomphe could not have been more crowded either. And it was bitterly cold and windy. We decided to not wait in line to attempt to go up top, but did get our pictures from ground level as quickly as possible.

A closeup of the Arc. You guys know what the rest of it looks like (Click the photo to see more photos if you don't)
So, given the shitty conditions, what is the best thing to do after the Arc? Take the metro to the Pompidou Center? Ridiculous. We were going to walk…all the way down the Champs Elysee. I can pinpoint this decision as the exact moment Ezeibe’s spirits died. Refer to the Downright Disasters section to see the result. Yes, we walked, what was probably a good two to three miles down the shopping street of the Champs, across the Tuileries Gardens, past the Louvre (again), and then a couple more blocks to Pompidou. That was a long, cold, crowded, miserable walk.
Suffice to say, a museum was not the most ideal destination, where we would have to continue to stand, stare, and walk some more. I saw Ezeibe just sitting, looking dead as one of those Catacombs bones, in one of the exhibit rooms at one point.
Downright Disasters:
- Today was the beginning of the end for Ezeibe. Alan said it best when he described his body balancing on a fragile combination of germs, viruses, bacteria and healthy immune cells. I think we all felt this way after beating up our bodies so brutally in the past week with the awkward sleep schedule, weird food, and new environments. A slight passing wind would’ve knocked our sensitive bodies into full-on sick mode. Germophobe Ezeibe lost his battle this day, and it really took until the last day of the trip to recover. Poor guy…
- The end of the honeymoon phase is typical on any trip. No one ever escapes it if they travel long enough (any more than 3 days together). I think it really began on this day for us. Before you go off thinking that we all hated each other and the trip was miserable from this point on, it wasn’t. It couldn’t be further from the truth. But exhaustion was setting in, patience was wearing thin, quirks became annoyances, change of scenery became homesickness, and stubbornness became outright rudeness. Being lost and cold and indecisive all of the time was wearing thin. And then to stick us in a tiny apartment to boot. But honestly, we all had the decency to suppress our emotions like the introverts we are. I write this more as a footnote, not as a memorable event. We had been arguing throughout, they just began to last a little longer. People got a little crueler or huffier. Some solitude was just a little more cherished. Even so, I don’t remember any discussions, fights, or disagreements (I can’t even call them arguments) that didn’t end in a joke or laughter.



























































