God, you’re probably tired of hearing about Paris. As travelers, we were getting tired of Paris ourselves. But there was still plenty to do in this city. Ezeibe was still taking it easy for most of the day.
The Good Surprises:
- Museum du jour was Rodin. I was pleasantly surprised at this small museum. All we knew was that The Thinker was there. Wiser from yesterday’s ordeal, we made sure to hit the museum early. While we didn’t have to wait in much of a line, our plan backfired when half of the museum was actually an outdoor sculpture garden. And yes, we froze our asses off. Nevertheless, the gardens were pretty, had sculptures, and lacked any vegetables or bees that can sting you. Just the way I like it.
Probably due to the cold and early morning, but all the sculptures were pretty much alone for us to admire. There was maybe only three or four other people with us at The Thinker, Rodin’s most recognized sculpture. I got to admire a masterpiece up close, without 20 million cameras and tourists surrounding it. That was pretty breathtaking for me, and a moment I had been yearning to have at each museum since the Louvre.
The rest of the museum was pretty cool too and gave a good glimpse into how Rodin created his sculptures. In hindsight, I probably should have done the museum first where it went over Rodin’s process and drafts of some his most famous works, and then seen the final products out in the sculpture garden. When we left, the line to get in and crowds were definitely building. A pat on our back for finally being smart and planning ahead.

He's not thinking, he's silently judging me...

All the single ladies...wuh oh oh...
- Sunday Brunch. Now hungry and with no other options for blocks around, we settled on the cafe restaurant right across the street from the Rodin museum. It was bound to be a pricey disappointment, but we were again pleasantly surprised. The prices were not unreasonable at all, I had an amazing potato and ham omelette for Sunday brunch. Our waiter was the surliest, stereotypically French waiter we had ever met. Upon entering the restaurant, he made some sarcastic comment in French that was clearly mocking the two American tourists who just walked in the door and his waiter buddies all har-har’ed at the sight of us. This oddly felt inviting.
- Hotel des Invalides. We kind of went here on a whim because the Rodin museum didn’t take up much time and we still had the entire afternoon to kill. It was just down the road from Rodin Museum and it had Napoleon’s tomb. And you know how we feel about dead people. What we didn’t expect was that the Hotel des Invalides included an overwhelmingly comprehensive war museum and a medieval history museum to boot. What we thought was an hour-long distraction turned out to be five-hour French Military class. 10 things I learned:
1) For what is assumed to be a very small guy, Napoleon sure has a big ass tomb.
2) Note to self: Get buried in a mausoleum after death.
3) If I had more of an attention span and patience for crowds, I would’ve read the description of the 60+ letters in order written to get an account of Napoleon’s personal life and his military strategies. Can you believe at one time, people communicated and fought wars through written correspondences?
4) It still feels weird to be snapping tourist pictures in front of a tomb. It didn’t stop me, but I’m just saying.
5) World War I and World War II were some pretty devastating wars for the Europeans.
6) I didn’t realize Risk was as true to life until I saw the military museum and their visuals on major World War battles.
7) The French have a very different history of the World Wars than the Americans. For example, Pearl Harbor and the Holocaust are just notable footnotes in their history. But the invasion of Paris, invasion of Normandy, or African colonialism…don’t get me started.
The Hotel des Invalides have a ton of suits of armor. Weapons too.
9) I have no idea why the three-barrel split hunting gun (three gun barrels pointing at different angles) disappeared. Because that was a fuckin’ hardcore gun.
10) Gun existed way further back than I expected. Medieval times. Why use arrows and crossbows then?

Whatever could they be looking down upon?...

The tomb of Napoleon!

Alan looks for ways to kill me...

Two guards in a glass box. How this helps keep the place safe, I don't know. Plus, what happens if one of them farts? Instant death.
- Baby bottle bar! The name of the bar is actually Zero de Conduite, but it’s real name is “Awesome Hipster Bar for People Who Want to be Five Again.” It’s run by a pretty mellow dude, and the bar, like all places in Paris, was tiny. It draws a mostly college/university crowd. All the drinks were cartoon or comic book characters and you were given a whiteboard to DRAW your drink requests. I drew Babar (an elephant face), Aladdin (a stick figure on a magic carpet with genie), and Nemo (a generic fish, circle plus triangle for tail). So our drinks came in baby bottles. And to top off the cake of awesomeness, you play games while you drink! We were given Uno. I think we messed up the rules, because it took forever for one of us to win. I didn’t win, so it’s not worth mentioning who did.

A toast with the big babies.
- Crepes! We had one drink at the baby bottle bar (see bad surprises for why) and went to eat crepes at a restaurant next door. Ezeibe and I were craving them. Alan had given up on being disagreeable. The crepe place was really good. They had a mixture of both dessert crepes and dinner/breakfast crepes. All equally appetizing. We ate as the restaurant was closing. It was a quiet end to the night…
- Paris Red Light District. …except for Alan and I, our night didn’t end there! You know the clubs we were looking for by our apartment? Well, we happened upon them this night, and then realized, those clubs and bars made up the Red Light district of Paris. That’s also where the Moulin Rouge is. We were harassed by strip club peddlers trying to get us to enter. What was odd (and really, it shouldn’t be), but there were a lot of regular couples, middle-aged, that were just casually strolling down this strip of road, entering and shopping at the various sex shops. It’s like catching your mom and dad here, it’s awkward to even witness it. It was getting to the dicey part of the night, so we just did our passive-aggressive “Where should we go” walk around the area and decided to just call it a night. The Red Light District wasn’t quite our vibe, I guess (their vibe being sexy, hip, and club-banging. Our vibe being lame, beer, and anti-social).
The Bad Surprises:
- It was Alan’s day for picking dinner. If you thought Ezeibe’s dinner choices were questionable, Cheapskate Alan wanted a homemade pasta dinner. As with everything we do, this was easier said than done. All the markets and shops were again closed because it was already Sunday evening, including the grocery stores. So we went to a bodega at the corner of our street at the end of our day and ran into Ezeibe who had hobbled out of bed to buy some more tissues. And together, we bought a box of thin spaghetti. Nothing else. So for dinner, we had a plate of spaghetti and olive oil. Because although we talk a big game about a luxurious vacation, we’re all just starving college students at heart.
- Unfortunately, when you’re already having cocktails with low’ish alcoholic content, sucking it out of a baby bottle isn’t conducive to getting drunk. Someone should’ve warned us.
- My karaoke bar…we found it in the Red Light District! I’d been researching it all week. Unfortunately, at midnight, it was sparsely populated with a kind of sad mix of middle-aged folks with a crazy ass white woman singing on stage. Unfortunately, not the type of crowd I was shooting for. But for the record, I would’ve still joined had Alan not talked me out of it.