The Long Overdue Walkabout: Day 2 – Arriving in Kakadu
Posted in Personal Stuff, Travel on January 30th, 2010 by Mike Nguyen – Be the first to commentSo I was supposed to be up, ready, and waiting by 6:30AM to get picked up for my Kakadu tour. Unfortunately, that was when I woke up. My stupid phone alarm never went off. You can imagine the sheer and frantic panic as I tried to simultaneously gather all my belongings and not wake up Matt, Pinky, and David (Matt later admitted he awoke to me whisper-screaming “Where are the fucking room keys. FUCK!!”). Turns out the truck was late in picking everyone up anyways…
So let’s talk about my tour group first, or as I call them, my “keys to survival.” I found the people I met fascinating, so bear with me.
Dillon, our tour guide. A young, terribly enthusiastic, and laid back Aussie. While I considered the flies spawns of Satan, he described them as “just very friendly”. Definitely looked the part of an avid bushman, you could tell this dude could be content without showering for days and it seemed like he actually enjoyed being out in the outback (a totally insane concept to me). Had great taste in music** (Jack Johnson, CCR, Foo Fighters) and loved talking about the crazy weeklong, nonstop Australian music festivals where you don’t shower for days.
The rest of the group consisted of a variety of European couples, two British solo travelers, and myself. All very nice and interesting people with much longer stays in Australia than I could ever fathom as a member of the US workforce. It took a few days into the trip, but I eventually came to terms that Europeans view the United States as New York City, Hawaii, and Los Angeles. Connecticut is too much of a foreign concept. Fun trick though, if you tell them that you’re only given two weeks vacation, they will flip their shit.
Lastly, the 4WD tank, the new love of my life. This thing was a monster, and is truly the only vehicle one should drive through Kakadu (or anywhere). It was large, loud, and had little concept of suspension. My favorite joys as a kid was rolling down the windows as my dad hydroplaned across a puddle of water after a recent rainstorm. Bumping around in the 4WD as it crossed rivers, boulders, trees, and dunes brought me back to my youth. My goal is to own one of these tanks before I die.
So Day 1 in Kakadu:
- First, I should say that Kakadu National Park is about the size of Israel and covers about a dozen or so totally different environments. Driving anywhere, including to/from Kakadu involved at least an hour drive (often 2-3 hours) of bumping around dirt roads listening to Jack Johnson or CCR.
- Australians are very proud of the fact that they think about or are drinking the minute the sun goes up. Stop one was to a roadside stop to purchase beer…at 9 in the morning. There were emu’s in the parking lot. Definitely not in the States anymore.
- Our first stop was the Mamukala Wetlands. It had an assortment of birds and ducks around a waterhole that really was an oversized puddle at this point in the dry season. I don’t know, I found it fascinating, but then again, Australian dirt gets me excited. I wasn’t as weathered of a traveler as the rest of my group, I guess. On our way over to the viewing area, a monitor lizard had crawled from the edge of the watering hole into the bushes. Missed photo opportunity, unfortunately.
Kakadu more or less runs on two seasons: wet season and dry season. The park is an entirely different environment in wet season in every shape and form. However, the dry season allowed us access to fun watering holes to swim in, relatively free of croc danger. “Relatively free” being the key term.
- Our next stop inside the park (not counting the entrance) was a middle-of-nowhere picnic area on the bank of a small river/swamp. It was my first introduction to what would be a common theme during this trip: being out in the middle of nowhere after hours of endless driving in a potentially dangerous environment with no one around for miles except your group who could just as easily desert you. As we prepared and ate lunch amongst the flies and made introductions, it became very clear that everyone in the group only came to see crocodiles. Poor Dillon had to assure them that crocodiles would be seen…on Day 3. We were not pleased by this turn of events.
- We stopped at an aboriginal center as well today while Dillon filled up the tank with gas. I didn’t take too many notes on it, because amongst all the natural scenery, aboriginal culture was the least of my interests. However, months later, the aboriginal culture is what continues to fascinate me about this country. Not that I wasn’t interested in what I was seeing, I just wish I had paid more attention.
- Maguk/Barramundi Gorge was one of those watering holes. After getting changed in an outhouse with a giant cricket-spider-cockroach amalgamation, we hiked through a recently burned stretch of forest and grassland. Some of the trees were still smoking, and the whole place seemed to be one thrown cigarette butt away from another wildfire, but like the true outback bushman he is, Dillon was unconcerned. He instead showed us the debris that sat atop on the treeline above our heads as proof of water levels during wet season. To me, that debris just seemed extremely flammable.
- Well, if you know me, I don’t really swim. So plunging into a beautiful soul-cleansing gorge underneath a perfect waterfall did me wonders…until I realized I couldn’t swim and flopped around with the fishes. While my group admired the waterfall up close from a rock perch in the middle of the lagoon, I clung to the edge of the rocks 50 feet away and bobbed my head in and out of the water, examining my lack of buoyancy.
When it was time to move on, one of the German siblings, Alex, stopped me as we climbed out of the water.
“Mike, do you not know how to swim?”
“Umm…not really.”
“Do you want to see the waterfall? I can help you swim over.”
Humilated, “…No…it’s okay…thank you…* heavysigh*” …dignity gone…fml.
- Nearly getting eaten by flies…no (additional) comment.
Near Death Experience: Nearly drowning in Maguk. Although, I thought I got the hang of the swimming business right as we were leaving. Honest…
Then it was off to a primitive camp-site in the middle…of…nowhere. It looked like this was a campsite that could accommodate a few groups, but I’m fairly positive our group was alone out there. Some highlights of the evening:
- Rediscovering my faith in humanity when the Dutch guy in my group saw me struggling with my tent setup and helped me out.
- Getting my own tent! Everyone else was coupled, except for the two British guys, who shared a tent. This made me very pleased.
- Rediscovering my faith in mother nature when the flies disappeared the minute the sun went down.
- The amusement of Dillon trying to educate a group of Europeans on the mechanics and rules of cricket. I think I had the advantage of having at least known baseball, but this seemed entirely foreign to everyone else except one of the Brits.
- The Czech couple sharing homemade apricot gin to the group. Strongest shot of alcohol I’ve ever had. It could knock out a moose, but it was delicious.
- Brushing my teeth in the dark and spitting it into the ground. Hey, I’m not outdoorsy, this felt badass.
And with that, a very eventful first day in Kakadu was over. As I laid in my tent looking at the beautiful Southern skies at night, I was amazed I lasted this long doing what I had done.
**I dwell on the musical tastes of my guides because of its importance to the morale of the group. Every activity during the day is split between hours of endless driving of desert, bush, or some combination thereof. Trust me. Good music really passes the time.





























